M. Deinum, Netherlands (Sep. '00)

If you are in Pakistan and want to make a nice trek then go to Kalam. And don't go in the season but go in March/April. Then there is still snow and it is very quiet over there. It saves you money. Hotels can be much cheaper. And you meet more of the local people, which are very willing to take you into the mountains. Next to that we walked back to the airport of Saidu Sharif (from Kalam), through the mountains. This takes about two weeks if you take also some short trips in the surroundings. If you go straight you can do it in a week. Professionals may be quicker. I can really recommend it, it is very nice and very different from the main Pakistan.

Colin Ngan, UK (May '00)

Badshahi Mosque (Lahore). I was there in January 2000 and the rooms above the entrance gate were open to the public. Though I was the most obvious non-Pakistani tourist there, there were Pakistani tourists also, and we were all equally welcome with a smile and a return of 'assalam alaikum'. There is a minor fee, but indeed you have the opportunity to solemnly see the hairs of the Prophet Mohammed, and other relics. One should be respectful though, because whether we find it interesting or not, for the Pakistani visitors it is a big thing. Remember, if you should happen to say 'Mohammed', you must also immediately say 'may peace be upon him' (in Urdu, which I have forgotten), otherwise you are likely to cause great offense to most of the people around you.

Ian Stone, UK (May '00)

In Islamabad, the big bazaar that used to run on a Friday is now definitely running on a Sunday. LP mentioned that it might change and it has now.

Pete Jones (May '00)

I turned up at the Khunjerab Pass before the 1st of May but was turned away. Unfortunately my visa expired on April 25th but I was assured by various locals that going back to Islamabad was not necessary - that it was easy to get a travel permit for the extra week I needed. It is actually very, very difficult and it took me a week in Gilgit, asking various people in the Foreigners' Registration Office, until I finally got it. Make damn sure your visa is valid long enough to get out. If you are thinking of cycling the Karakoram Highway, the stretch from Pindi to Gilgit is pretty miserable (stone throwing kids, flyblown bazaars etc.) but the continuing stretch up to the border is fantastic.